Maximilian Broadtail Lamb Fur Coat - 1958

You may have noticed I've been showing fur coats on Fridays for the last couple of weeks.  I'm going to continue this series for a few reasons.  First, these coats are beautiful and even if you don't wear fur, you can appreciate the designs and styles.  Second, when perusing my collection of vintage magazines, they are full of photos and ads for fur coats.  Furs were an important part of fashion and my blog would not be complete without them.  Third, one of the most frequent questions we get on the discussion boards at the VFG is "What type of fur is this?"  The VFG has a fabulous Fur Resource to help identify varieties of fur and I'm hoping to do a similar thing here.  If you type a variety of fur over in the search box, it will bring up posts from the past with photos of actual fur coats and you can use that to help identify your fur.  OK?

From 1958, the coat shown here is by Maximilian and is made of black Hollander-dyed Russian broadtail lamb fur.  The coat is completely lined in natural dark ranch mink.  The bateau collar is also mink.  That's quite a pairing of two fur varieties in one gorgeous coat!

Paris Couture Day Dresses and Suits - 1958

You may have noticed I've been posting pretty things from 1958 this week.  I thought I'd just continue that by taking a look at Paris couture suits and daytime dresses from the same year.  Which is your favorite?

Pierre Cardin camel suit with brown Astrakhan fur collar.

Pierre Balmain blue wool suit with matching Persian lamb lined stole.

Lanvin-Castillo rose wool day dress with knotted sash.

Guy Laroche wool day dress with fringed sashes.

Madeleine de Rauch wool boucle suit.

Leslie Morris Evening Gown - 1958

Leslie Morris was hired by Bergdorf Goodman in 1931 and worked in their custom design department well into the 1960's. She traveled to Paris every year for the couture collections. She was considered part of the top rung of American designers in the 1930's, 40's, and 50's, on par with Sophie of Saks, Mr. Leone of Bendel's, and Wilson Folmar of Jay-Thorpe. I can find no evidence that Morris' name was ever put on the labels sewn into the garments, although it appeared prominently in advertisements for Bergdorf's.

The evening gown shown here was designed by Leslie Morris in 1958 and was available as part of Bergdorf's Made-to-Order collection.  (Made-to-order as in Beaucoup Bucks.)  The black silk velvet gown was accented with red silk American Beauty roses at the strapless bodice.  the matching black velvet stole was backed with silk satin in the exact color of the roses.  What I wouldn't give to see a photo of the actual dress.  Isn't it stunning?

Vicky Vaughn Dresses - 1958

Vicky Vaughn was the junior division of R & M Kaufmann, Inc in Aurora, Illinois.  The Kaufman brothers began making ladies dresses in the 1920s.  They built their business by producing high quality but moderately priced dresses and sleepwear.  The company was able to keep prices low by mass producing garments in their own factories.  In fact, their motto was "Only the LOOK is expensive."  Sales grew steadily through the use of full page advertisements in Seventeen, Mademoiselle and Charm magazines as well as the use of live television commercials on shows such as "Beat the Clock."  The Kaufmann's also produced the Toni Todd line for misses sizes.  The company was sold to Russ Togs in 1969.

Above left:  Wool jersey full skirted dress came in red, orange, green or blue.  Sold in 1958 for $14.95 (about $117 in today's dollar.)
Above right:  Wool knit top and skirt came in red, orange, green, blue or gold and came with the necklace.  Sold in 1958 for $14.95 (about $117 in today's dollar.)
 

Left: Rayon/orlon blend plaid chemise dress came with the matching headband.  Available in blue, orange, red or green.  Sold in 1958 for $12.95 (about $101 in today's dollar.)
Right:  Rayon/orlon blend plaid dress with matching bolero jacket came in blue, orange, red or green.  Sold in 1958 for $14.95 (about $117 in today's dollar.)

Left:  Rayon/acetate blend polka dot party dress came in beige, pink or turquoise.  Sold in 1958 for $12.95 (about $101 in today's dollar.)
Right:  Velveteen chemise top and skirt with rhinestone buttons came in red, black, gold or aqua.  Sold in 1958 for $12.95 (about $101 in today's dollar.)

Party Clothes - 1958

I always enjoy looking a pictures of vintage party clothes.  I know it's still summer, but the holiday party season will be here before we know it.  Have you started to think about what you'll wear this year?  These designer garments are all from Fall/Winter 1958.  The photos are by Richard Avedon.

Mainbocher white satin dinner dress with cut-away armholes.  To wear with it, a pink floral silk ottoman coat lined in quilted white satin.

Deep yellow satin dress with a huge bell shaped skirt by Balenciaga.

Also by Balenciaga, a fuchsia satin ball gown with a lace bodice.  I'd love to see this gown full length to see the shape of the skirt, wouldn't you?

Pink silk moire fashions a strapless bubble dress by Givenchy.  Love the way the bodice is knotted!

Givenchy uses pink again, this time a deep magenta satin, for this dinner coat.  Note the stand-away collar which would become hugely popular in the early 60s.

I love all these garments, but I must confess that the dark stockings with light shoes looks a bit jarring.  It wouldn't be my choice!

How to Wear Plaids for Fall, 1958

When I asked for requests for the blog on Facebook last week, Carey wanted a post about tartans.  Plaids are a classic for fall.  It seems every year the fashion magazines claim that "Plaid is Back!"  Actually, they never go out of favor.  Here are some suggestions for wearing plaid.  All of today's images are from 1958.

If you're choosing a bold color, consider a plaid that is worked in a tone-on-tone effect so as not to jar the eye of your beholders.  Guy Laroche designed this scarlet plaid coat for Duchess Royal.  It comes with an attached scarf collar that can be worn in many ways. Sold in 1958 for $110 (about $859 in today's dollar.)

Pair plaids, especially bold ones, with solid neutrals.  This lets the plaid stand out and become the star.  At left:  Modern Juniors sleeveless tunic worn over a red wool jumpsuit.  Set sold in 1958 for $33 (about $258 in today's dollar.)  At right: Dick Dumas blanket coat in bold orange, red and yellow is worn with a solid turtleneck and simple black pants.  Sold in 1958 for $60 (about $469 in today's dollar.)

When wearing an allover plaid, such as a suit, tone down the colors so as not to overwhelm your figure.  This spectator suit by Ellen Brooke was available in soft brown or misty blue.  Bold red or green would have been too much.  Sold in 1958 for $135 (about $1,054 in today's dollar.)

Consider the scale of the plaid you are wearing.  While an oversized, bold plaid can work for a casual coat, when wearing a suit or a dressier topper, keep the size of the plaid smaller for a more professional look.   Also consider your figure.  If you are a petite woman, a smaller scale plaid is best.  Nelly de Grab wool/mohair suit was sold at Bergdorf Goodman.  Sold in 1958 for $40 (about $312 in today's dollar.)

Plaids can be perfect for a casual look too.  Pair a plaid skirt, shorts or pants with a solid blouse or sweater for a classic look that will always be in style.  These wool pieces are all by Loomtogs.

Don't consider yourself a plaid kind of gal?  How about carrying a plaid blanket wool handbag as a standout accessory?  Pair it with a simple solid coat for a fabulous splash of color!  Coronet wool handbag with black calfskin handle and straps.  Sold in 1958 for $30 (about $234 in today's dollar.)

Design Piracy is Not New

Fashion designers have long looked to historical garments and to Paris couture for inspiration.  But when one designer copies the work of another line for line, that is known as design piracy.   CFDA President Diane von Furstenburg is currently leading the fight to have Congress adopt the Design Piracy Prohibition Act here in the US.  In 2009, von Furstenburg settled a suit out of court with Canadian label Mercy when it was found one of her design assistants copied a floral jacket from Mercy's Spring 2008 line.  Von Furstenburg was reportedly devastated by the embarrassing incident, especially considering that the designer is herself suing Target for copying her own designs.

Design piracy is not a recent phenomenon, though.  It just didn't get exposed as often without the instant news we now get on the internet.  Take the example of the dress shown above by Claire McCardell from Spring 1958. The bias cut pale gray Irish linen dress skims the body and is accented with white piping at the neckline and pockets. This dress was included in the line that was to be McCardell's last, and much of it was designed by Mildred Orrick and Arnold Scaasi due to McCardell's ill health.  In fact, by the time the above photo was published in June of 1958, McCardell had already passed from colon cancer. 

Three years later, in 1961, the same fashion magazine featured this shell gray bias cut Irish linen dress that skims the body and is accented with white piping at the neckline and pocket.  The only thing missing is the little bow at the front.  McCardell?  No.  This dress was by Abby Michael, a division of Bobbie Brooks.  Coincidence?  I think not.

Summer Cover-up Dresses - 1958

Tell me honestly, would you have guessed 1958?  Not I!  If I found any of these cover-up dresses, I would have guessed mid to late 1960s based upon their short length and shift style.  Just goes to show, you learn something new every day.  Above, Greta Plattry striped cotton tunic length dress with matching shorts in green and blue stripes.  Set sold for $20 in 1958 (about $156 in today's dollar.)  Mr. John hat.

 Black and white striped cotton dress with drawstring waist by Toni Owen.  Sold for $10 in 1958 (about $78 in today's dollar.)  Hat by Mr. John.

 John Weitz terrycloth tunic dress with fringed hem and sash belt.  Sold for $14 in 1958 (about $109 in today's dollar.)

 Greta Plattry short dress with matching panties in tiers of white eyelet cotton.  Wow, this really looks late 60s or even early 70s to me!  Sold for $40 in 1958 (about $311 in today's dollar.)

Haymaker sleeveless dress with shirt tail hem.  Sold for $14 in 1958 (about $109 in today's dollar.)

Fun Stuff and Nonsense - 1958

Flipping through a 1958 magazine today, various things caught my eye. Rather than search for a theme to build them around, here is some random fun and nonsense.

Delightful fun! Oh, how I want this hat! John Frederics blue and white striped sailcloth with a blue plastic window to peek through. Sold for $7 in 1958 (about $53 in today's dollar.)

Sultry fun. The model in this image exudes sensuality with her tousled hair and come-hither glance. She wears a white silk shirt by Emilio Pucci. Sold for $35 in 1958 (about $267 in today's dollar.) Does anyone know who this model is?

Luxurious fun. I've never seen a mink jacket with such a brief cut, but I love it! By Bergdorf Goodman's custom furrier, Emeric Partos in white mutation mink. Sold for $2,420 in 1958 (about $18,441 in today's dollar.)

Outrageous fun! These ankle boots by Capezio were made of wool blanket plaid and black patent leather. Fringe falls over the top edge. Sold for $17 in 1958 (about $130 in today's dollar.)

And some nonsense. Harriet Hubbard Ayer offered Midas Touch spray on color to add streaks of shimmering silver or gold to your hair. It may have been fun for the younger set, but the the ad suggests it is great for gray hair! I think it just looks silly......unless it's Halloween.

Weekend Eye Candy - Emeric Partos, 1958

In 1958, Bergdorf Goodman's custom furrier Emeric Partos designed this mink coat to wear over your full skirted evening dresses. Notice how it ties at the waist with attached sashes. Let the cold winter winds blow!

Metlon Metallic Yarns

Aren't these golden cocktail ensembles from 1958 lovely? Adele Simpson made the brocade suit on the left and Hannah Troy did the lurex knit dress on the right. The fabrics used for both garments were woven with metallic thread made by Metlon, a Rhode Island company still in business today. Metlon began in business in 1947 by designing and building special machinery to slit fine gauge metallic fabrics into thin continuous strips of yarn or thread.

Later in the same 1958 magazine, this ad appears for an evening suit in turquoise and gold brocade by Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner. The brocade fabric was made with Metlon threads. Gorgeous, isn't it? And if you were lucky enough to find this suit today, I'll bet those gold threads would still be shimmering just as brightly as they did over 50 years ago.

Lee Claire Cocktail Dress, 1958

I love bubble dresses, and everything about this one is perfection. The strapless black velvet bodice encircles the bosom like a sash. White point d'esprit dotted lace poufs out to form a delicious and fun party dress. It looks like one big polka-dot and I love it! Dress by Lee Claire sold for $90 in 1958 (about $681 in today's dollar.)

So, did you notice? Every post this week showcased polka-dots. I've gone dotty since I posted the Pierre Cardin purple polka dotted coat last Friday! I'll move on now.....promise!

Sophie of Saks Dress, 1958

In 1958, when the "chemise" or "sack" dress style was making headlines, Sophie of Saks refused to follow the trend and gave her high end customers what they wanted - a slender waist. For Spring of 1958, she offered this silk taffeta full skirted dress with matching full coat. Set sold for $725 in 1958 (about $5489 in today's dollar.)

Mock Furs - 1958

In the late 1950s and into the early 60s, mock furs (or faux furs as we call them today) were promoted as a less expensive alternative to costly real furs. I think you can tell from these photos, however, that the quality of the mock fur fabrics available were far inferior to those we have today. But it is interesting to see the styles that were available and even more interesting to see how expensive these coats were!! These photos are all from 1958.

Above, a mock wolf fur pullover ski top by John Weitz in Borg Dynel shaggy faux fur. Top sold in 1958 for $55 (about $418 in today's dollar.)

Murry Neiman mock seal fur coat in Orlon faux fur. Coat sold in 1958 for $145 (about $1100 in today's dollar.)

Vera Maxwell mock mink evening coat made from Candalon "Wink" fabric. Coat sold in 1958 for $130 (about $988 in today's dollar.)

Custom Craft mock Persian lamb jacket made of wool. Jacket sold in 1958 for $40 (about $304 in today's dollar.)

Handelsman & Raiffe faux sheared beaver coat made from Candalon "Kissing Cousin" mock fur fabric. Coat sold in 1958 for $99 (about $753 in today's dollar.)

Vintage Fur Coats - 1958

I am a firm believer that if you chose to wear fur, you should always chose vintage. That keeps coats and stoles already in existence out of our landfills and at the same time doesn't support the unneeded slaughter of today's animals for fashion. In showing images of vintage furs on this blog, I hope to inspire you and show you how beautiful they can be for the modern woman. Enjoy these images from 1958.

Scaasi for Ben Kahn Russian Crown sable jacket with large collar. Lined in red and gold lamé.

Emba pale gray mutation mink coat by Emeric Partos of Bergdorf Goodman.

Alixandre Empress Chinchilla stole.

Two Elsa Schiaparelli licensed Southwest African Persian Lamb jackets with mink collars.

Maximilian black Russian broadtail lamb completely lined in natural dark ranch mink.
Mink also forms the bateau neckline.

Jonny Herbert Dresses - 1958

"Jonny Herbert does the Capri de Havana" So goes the title of a several page ad from a 1958 magazine. Jonny Herbert was a Seventh Avenue company that specialized in junior sized cocktail and evening dresses in the 1950s and 60s. The Hotel and Casino de Capri in Havana, Cuba, was built in 1957 and opened in November of that year. The 19 story hotel and casino had a rooftop pool and was built by mobster Santo Trafficante as a draw for vacationing Americans. The ad pages feature Jonny Herbert dresses in various shots taken in the hotel, casino, and the surrounding Havana neighborhood.

Above, a Chantilly lace dress that was available in white, pink, blue, and black. Sold for $49 in 1958 (about $373 in today's dollar).

Pin dot taffeta strapless dress with matching jacket came in navy, gray, and blue. Sold for $39 in 1958 (about $296 in today's dollar).

Rose printed silk surah dress with bows at the shoulders came in green, royal, and red. Sold for $39 in 1958 (about $296 in today's dollar).

Taffeta bubble skirt dress with buttons at the front came in navy or black. Sold for $35 in 1958 (about $266 in today's dollar).

I love the composition of this photo. The model wears a silk/linen sheath dress with matching jacket and is surrounded by Cubans. The suit was available in navy, black, blue, and beige. Sold for $55 in 1958 (about $418 in today's dollar).

By the way, the Hotel de Capri closed in 2003 and today sits empty and derelict. You can see the rooftop pool in the opening scene of the 1959 film "Our Man in Havana".