When Was the Nylon Coil Zipper Introduced?

Many vintage dealers will look to the type of zipper used in a garment to help date it.  Metal zippers were in common use in garments from the 1940s through the 60s and I've even seen them in a few early 70s dresses.  But many people believe if a garment has a nylon zipper, it probably dates to the mid-to-late 60s at the earliest.  Not true.  Today I came across this ad for the "New" Talon Zephyr zipper in a magazine from October of 1960.  While it is true that nylon coil zippers were not immediately popular, you will find early ones from time to time, especially in designer garments.  The new nylon coil zippers were probably more expensive than metal ones at first, as most new technology is.  And they weren't available to home sewers until later.

The dress shown is by designer Hannah Troy.

There is the copy from the ad:  "New Talon Zephyr...fabulous nylon closure with the feel and flex of fabric.  Borne on the high winds of fashion:  A pouf of silk damask unburdened by the look and feel of hardware - accomplished by the new Talon Zephyr.  A new nylon coil design makes it as light, soft and supple as fabric.  And Zephyr's color lives forever, so it can't reveal that metal gleam along a seam.  It's virtually snag proof.  Magically self-healing.  (If fabric or thread should catch in coils, bend it in half to open....remove fabric.  Then zip it down, zip it up and it 'heals' itself!)  Look for the tiny Zephyr in fall's most important fashions.  Hannah Troy designed this one, and put special interest on the sleeves."

I'm not sure if Talon was the first company to introduce nylon coil zippers to the fashion industry, so I can't say that 1960 was the definitive year when the nylon zipper first appears in clothing.  But I can say that Talon advertised it's new zipper in 1960 and that provides a valuable clue when trying to date some vintage garments.

Photo source

UPDATE:  Please note that the zipper I am referring to in this article is the nylon coil zipper, as shown on the right in this photo.  Earlier plastic zippers were available and were most often used as a decorative element.  They were heavier and looked similar to the one shown on the left in this photo.  Please see my follow-up article on early plastic zippers from the 30's.  Nylon wasn't invented until 1935 and it's use for zipper coils did not come until much later.

Weekend Eye Candy - Hermes, 1960

It seems appropriate after our look at wearing plaids this week that this gorgeous coat and suit set by Hermes from 1960 should come along.  Note how the designer uses the same plaid in different sizes so they combine beautifully.

Inspiration from Christian Dior - 1960

Today's spectacular garment is a strapless ball gown by Christian Dior for Spring, 1960.  This gown was designed by Yves St. Laurent as part of the collection which would ultimately be his last for Dior.  Pink was a hugely popular color in 1960 and this gown is made of a melon pink silk organdy.  The organdy also fashions ruffles that explode at the bodice and hem.

How does this gown inspire you?

Inspiration from Nina Ricci - 1960

Today's inspiration comes from Nina Ricci.  Jules Francois Crahay was the designer for Ricci in 1960 and his genius is evident in this cocktail length dress paired with a full length opera coat, both in an opulent Middle Eastern inspired silk.  The coat is accented with black fox fur collar and cuffs.  Silver shoes echo the silver threads in the fabric.  Black kidskin gloves finish the look.

How does this inspire you?

Inspiration From B.H. Wragge - 1960

Today's inspiring garment is a dress by B.H. Wragge.  This is a simple blouson sheath in brown Moygashel linen that probably looks quite elegant but ordinary from the front.  Turn around, though, and you've got a pop of a bright red zipper from shoulder to hem.  The zipper pull is a cluster of beads by Coro.  The zipper is the latest thing in 1960, the new Talon Zephyr nylon zipper.  I adore the fact that the zipper is set off to the side rather than placed at the center back where you would expect it to be. Now isn't that ingenious!  Sold for $50 in 1960 (about $381 in today's dollar.)

How does this inspire you?

Inspiration From Guy Laroche - 1960

For Fall, 1960, Guy Laroche showed this trés elegant suit in orange and gray wool.  The dress is made to look like two pieces.  The jacket is reversible from orange with gray binding to solid gray.  The dress is fitted to the body while the jacket is the boxier shape that was so popular at the time.  Note the use of a brown leather hat and brown suede gloves to complete the look.

How does this inspire you?

Inspiration From Ben Zuckerman - 1960

I'm going to change things up a bit this week and show you one spectacular garment per day from the year 1960 as inspiration for your own style.

Spectacular indeed is what I would say about this suit by Ben Zuckerman from 1960.  Everything about it just takes my breath away!  The silk is printed in an Asian inspired floral in pink, orange and white.  The jacket is tied at the waist in front and floats freely in the back.  It has the latest news in collars from 1960, the little stand-up style that sits away from the neck.  The suit sold in 1960 for $215.00 (about $1640.00 in today's dollar.)  And how about that hat by Lilly Daché?  It's made of pink silk and matches the lining of the suit jacket.  Gloves by Kislav. Quite a statement!

How does this inspire you?

Weekend Eye Candy - Norman Hartnell Wedding Gown, 1960

It has become a tradition around here to feature brides and wedding dresses for our Weekend Eye Candy posts during the month of June.  Norman Hartnell designed this silk organza wedding gown for Princess Margaret.  She is also wearing the dramatic Poltimore tiara, which was sold by her children after her death.  The wedding took place on May 6, 1960 and it was the first Royal Wedding broadcast on television worldwide.

Weekend Eye Candy - Valentino, 1960

Valentino Haute Couture evening gown from Fall-Winter 1960.  Valentino called this gown the "Lucky".  The gown is fashioned of black silk velvet with eleven tulle flounces that form the flared skirt with train and a matching shawl completes the look.

1960 Couture Evening Gowns and Party Dresses

Time to tell us, which is your favorite of these couture looks from 1960?

Christian Dior

Carven

Maggy Rouf

Jacques Griffe

Mme. Gres

Jacques Heim

Emilio Pucci Capsula - 1960

 Would you have guessed this jumpsuit by Emilio Pucci dates to 1960?  Pucci called this piece the "capsula" (which means capsule in English) as it encapsulated the body from head to toe.  He made it in several versions and in both prints and solids of a stretch silk/Helanca nylon blend shantung.  The little boots were made to match by Albion for Emilio Pucci.

Above left:  One piece capsula in blue print with V neckline.  Sold in 1960 for $150 (about $1,121 in today's dollar.)
Above right:  Sleeveless top with separate pants gives the look of one piece in a pink print.  Sold in 1960 for $110 (about $822 in today's dollar.)

One piece capsula in pink with a Pucci print silk shirt worn as a jacket.  Set sold in 1960 for $175 (about $1,308 in today's dollar.)

I've never seen one of these capsula jumpsuits for sale anywhere, but Rice and Beans Vintage just listed a pair of the  Albion boots.  Aren't they great?

Betty Barclay Dress - 1960

The Betty Barclay line was one of the many labels owned by the Jonathan Logan Group. The line is still in existence today in Europe. In 1955, Max Berk of Heidelberg, Germany bought the license to distribute Betty Barclay clothing in Europe. In 1972, he bought the line outright. Today, Betty Barclay stores can be found in Germany, Austria, and Slovakia and Betty Barclay clothes are sold throughout Europe.

The image above is from Spring, 1960. The full skirted dress had a printed bodice with a belt to match. Over that, the little bolero jacket buttoned up the side. There was an attached netting crinoline to add fullness to the skirt. Cute, no? Sold in 1960 for $18.00 (about $133 in today's dollar.)

Weekend Eye Candy - Balenciaga 1960

From 1960, the back of a pink shot silk "Amphora" evening gown by Balenciaga. Photo by David Seidner.

The same gown from the front, this time in black from the collection at the V&A museum. Interesting how different it looks from photo to photo, no?